Decryption of 10 often overlooked external flash settings

Flash is a necessary thing for photographers. It not only provides artificial light source to cope with low light or indoor shooting, but also enables photographers to create special shooting effects by using flash. But for entry-level users, the function settings of professional external flash are not at all simpler than those of cameras. From operation settings to customized function settings in the light, they are as complex. Beginners may not understand some function settings, or even inadvertently turn left or right, resulting in confusion of settings, even the normal shooting is affected. So in the following article, we will list the function settings of multiple flashes to solve the shooting problems caused by the misuse of flashes. If you don't want to win, let's explore.

1. Illumination unevenness caused by incorrect adjustment

Why is it that sometimes the illumination is uneven when shooting with flash in the TTL mode of bright and bright, especially bright in the middle of the picture, but very dark around? Experienced photographers must know that this is related to the flash zoom lamp. But the flash has automatic focal length adjustment. Why does this happen? Focus adjustment does not necessarily mean that it is automatic. Pay attention to the word "M" beside the word "Zoom" on the flash, which means manual or automatic. The flash will receive the lens focal length data provided by the camera to automatically set the appropriate zoom lamp head position. Of course, some flashes display "A Zoom" automatically. Also, there are some built-in flash settings that allow the photographer to lock the flash in only "M Zoom" and remember to turn it off when not in use.

If the focal length of the lamp is larger than that of the lens, the flash will be narrower and the chance of black angle will increase.

You should pay attention to the word "M" beside the "Zoom" indicator on the flash. If so, it is in manual settings and may not match the focal length of the lens. At this time, you should pay attention to it.

Some flashes, such as Nikon's SB series advanced lights, can be set to turn on "MZoom", meaning that the flash zoom lamp head can only be manually operated, if you do not need to select "OFF".

When the "Zoom" lamp head is automatic, there will be no "M" word, and some flashes will even show "A" or "Auto". Strong & gt; Professional flash setting method

2. Whether to set ISO for flash

Flash can set ISO value. With TTL automatic flash, the camera has set the ISO of the flash, but the flash is measured by M manual or A automatic aperture independently. Then the ISO value is input for the flash, and the flash can calculate the appropriate data by itself. For example, when the ISO value is set in M mode, the output, aperture value and the lamp head will be determined according to the input. Focus position, indicating the effective flash distance, so as to facilitate the photographer to quickly determine which distance the flash should be placed, in order to take accurate exposure photos.

Some flashes can set ISO values, but they have no effect on automatic flash shooting, such as TTL mode, but they are useful when they are used alone or even with different cameras, such as manual M mode and A mode with built-in flash measuring device.

The figure shows Nikon's SB-900. In M or A mode, when the output (1/1 to 1/128), Zoom position and aperture value are set under the set ISO value, the indication of effective flash distance will be provided.

(1) M or A mode & nbsp; & nbsp; (2) ISO value & nbsp; & nbsp; (3) effective flash distance & nbsp; & nbsp; (4) lamp head Zoom position & nbsp; & nbsp; (5) aperture value

3. Setting the picture correctly

There are two kinds of SLR: 135 full frame and APS-C. Different lenses cover different angles. When APS-C is used, the actual angle will be narrower. So the position of the flash head can be matched accordingly. In fact, it is an advantage, because when the zoom lamp head turns narrower, the GN value will be larger. Comparatively speaking, when shooting the subject at the same distance, the flash output with a small frame can be a little less. Nowadays, cameras and flashes can automatically cooperate with zoom, so it is no longer necessary to bother. But when using lenses that do not automatically provide focus data or APS-C lenses in full frame, it is necessary to set the lamp head position of the camera to match the focal length of the lens with 135 focal lengths so that the flash can be fully used.

The frame setting of Nikon flash is mainly for "M Zoom" to set the position of zoom lamp head manually, such as selecting FX_DX. When the flash is installed on the camera, it will automatically detect which lens it is.

Canon's settings allow the flash to zoom automatically with the sensor. If you turn on an APS-C camera, when you use a 24mm lens, the focal length is equivalent to 38mm of 135, so the lamp head position has been automatically adjusted to 35mm, which can cover the picture, but if the GN value is higher, the flash output will be more useful. After moving the lamp head, it covers a longer focal length.

4. Why does a sudden pause occur when stroboscopic flashes occur?

You may have tried to inadvertently s to the camera depth of field preview button to make the flash flash suddenly continue to flash for several seconds, causing embarrassment. In fact, this is the modelling Flash of the flash, which facilitates the photographer to predict the shadow of the subject or the subject and assist in lighting distribution. By default, this function works by pressing the camera's depth-of-field preview button, so the photographer may inadvertently cause an unexpected flash. In addition to turning it off, you can choose to set the trigger button on the test light button of the flash, or set the depth of field preview button and the test button to be effective. You might as well set it according to your own needs. Simply turning it off will naturally avoid the embarrassing situation next time.

Depending on the brand, the styling flash of the flash can cancel or change the triggered button in the camera or flash. For example, Canon's flash has a "styling flash" in its C.Fn, which has four settings.

Flash has the function of modelling lamp, which is usually triggered by pressing the preset button of the depth of field of the camera.

5. Note that the flash exposure compensation between in-plane and flash will accumulate & nbsp; & nbsp; & nbsp;

Some people are accustomed to adding or subtracting exposure compensation directly with the camera, but forget that the flash may have used exposure compensation. Because some cameras will automatically accumulate the value, there will be exposure compensation accumulation, so that the photo exposure deviation is too large. Of course, there are also camera system flash exposure compensation is independent, the flash has been made. Compensation, flash exposure compensation on the camera will not work. In addition, some flashes have more exposure preference settings, which can adjust the exposure compensation of TTL flash in advance. If the photographer forgets, he may think that the flash is inaccurate.

If it is a Canon user, if the flash has been added or subtracted, the camera can no longer be set, so there is no need to worry about the flash exposure compensation cumulative situation.

Some new flashes even offer exposure preference settings, preset flash exposure plus or minus, but novices do not understand that it may be misadjusted.

Take the Nikon flash as an example. When the flash has been added or subtracted by exposure compensation, if the photographer adds or subtracts the camera, its added or subtracted value will accumulate, of course, it can also be subtracted. If the flash + 3EV, the camera - 3EV, in fact, is 0EV, and although the camera may be set +/- 5EV, the compensation for the flash is at most +/- 3EV.

New intermediate flashes such as Nissin Di700 will show exposure compensation more clearly and keep the photographer's eye on it.

Take the Nikon camera as an example. When the camera and the flash are exposed together to compensate, the result is cumulative.

6. Why does a flash consume its own power for no reason? & nbsp; & nbsp; & nbsp;

Nowadays, flashes use AA power more, many people will use rechargeable batteries, in fact, the power is not weak, but some friends often say that the flashes only used several times, somehow every few days, there is no electricity, suspecting that the flashes are broken and lead to power failure. In fact, the photographer should check whether the "automatic power off" function in the flash is turned on or not, if it is not turned on, and forget to turn off the power button after using the flash, the flash will be turned on all the time, which will consume the power supply of the flash. If turned on, the flash will be automatically turned off at a number of times to reduce power consumption and be in standby state. In addition, if you use the wireless remote control flash, the operation time of the subordinate flash can also be set. If you want to use it for a long time, you can set the time a little longer.

Remember to turn on the flashlight and turn off the power automatically, so as to prevent idle flashlight from forgetting to turn off, so that the battery is exhausted.

In addition to turning off the power supply, the time can also be set by using the slave mode.

Some flashes may indicate Standby's standby status when the power is turned off. The flashes will be awakened by pressing the test button or reinstalling them on the camera. 7. Is it really useful to test the lights manually before shooting? & nbsp; & nbsp; & nbsp;

When you hold the flash in your hand, you will naturally press the test button to try the flash, which is a must before each shot. It's better to know what's wrong with the flash than to have an accident on the spot. However, some people dislike that the light is too strong by pressing the test light button. In fact, it can be set in the flash output, such as 1/32, and some can even provide 1/128 intensity. Here I suggest using 1/32.

(1) Each flash has a button to turn on the light. It not only indicates the charging condition, but also triggers a test flash or a modelling flash. The output of the test flash can be adjusted.

(2) The most basic set test flash output is full output.

8. Is the high-speed synchronous flash bright enough?

Most DSLRs have high-speed synchronous flash function, some are called FP, some are H or HSS. High-speed synchronization means that a camera can use a higher-than-maximum synchronization shutter for flash photography with compatible flash lights. For example, the camera's highest-speed synchronization shutter is about 1/200 seconds. When the flash is installed and the high-speed synchronization is turned on, more than 1/200 shutters can be used. However, when FP is turned on, the maximum output of the flash will be weakened. The reason is that the flash needs to be emitted in a shorter time, and the associated output will be reduced accordingly. The GN value will be reduced. The actual value can be referred to in the manual. Flash actually shows the effective flash distance in real time, so once using FP, we should pay attention to the shooting distance should not be too far, in order to prevent the lack of brightness.

Some cameras use FP to represent high-speed synchronization.

Some use H to represent high-speed synchronization.

When using FP, when the shutter exceeds the maximum flash synchronization shutter of the original camera, the effective flash distance of the flash will be greatly shortened. As shown in the two pictures above, the main body distance is about 2 meters. When using FP, there will be insufficient brightness.

Source: Photonews.hk